Climbing Sinks Canyon: A Guide to the Best Routes for All Levels
Sinks Canyon is a real hot spot for climbers! The rock type shifts all around as you approach the Wind River Range, from sandstone to limestone to granite in just a few miles. The Dolomite is where it's at for sport climbing. But don't think you're limited, there's trad climbing on the granite and sandstone, as well as bouldering on all three rock types.
You can find climbs ranging from 5.6 to 5.14c. And, of course, there's something for every level of climber out there. But if you're looking for the best of the best, go for the classic climbs of 5.10 and above, no doubt about it.
How to Get to Sinks Canyon?
To get to Sinks Canyon State Park from Wind River Climbing Guides, which is located at 425 Popo Agie St, Lander, WY 82520, United States, just follow these directions:
First, head west on Popo Agie St toward S 5th St. Then, turn left onto S 5th St and continue for half a mile. After that, turn right onto WY-131 S/Fremont St and keep going for 7.1 miles until you reach Sinks Canyon State Park, located at 3079 Sinks Canyon Rd, Lander, WY 82520, United States.
Finding the Perfect Time to Climb Sinks Canyon
You can hit up Sinks’ Main Wall all year round, but the sweet spot for climbing is during fall, winter, and spring. The Main Wall can become quite hot during summer, so it is advisable to climb in the afternoon when temperatures start to cool down. Sinks Canyon is optimal for winter and spring climbing. Even when it's freezing in town (like, we're talking temps in the 20s), the sun shining on the rocks makes for some pleasant climbing. March and April are boss times to hit up Sinks.
Beyond the Main Wall: Exploring Sinks Canyon's Diverse Climbing Areas and Hidden Gems
Sinks Canyon offers something for everyone, from classic 5.8s to epic 5.13s in the famous Killer Cave and more. The real challenge at Sinks is not finding a route for yourself, but having the stamina to climb everything you want on the steep, exhausting cliffs. Although there are four areas in Sinks Canyon, the Main Wall is undoubtedly the most sought-after among traveling climbers.
Fairfield Hill and Granite Crags are two lesser-known spots in Sinks Canyon, perhaps due to their distance from the more appealing Main Wall. However, both of these areas offer high-quality climbs without the crowds or sandbags you might find elsewhere. The Granite area can even be a more pleasant alternative to the Main Wall during the hot summer months, and it's at its prime during the spring and fall shoulder seasons.
The Shady Side might not have the same prestige or volume of routes as the Main Wall, but it's still home to some fantastic lines, especially if you're looking to avoid sun exposure during the summer months.
Lastly, there's Sandstone, the oldest bolted wall in Sinks, and unfortunately, not as frequented as the newer routes on Main Wall.
For those willing to venture further into the canyon, Fossil Hill is an excellent choice. This ridge-side crag offers 70-80 lines, although it may be better suited for intermediate climbers rather than beginners.
Little Popo Agie is another remote area, situated far down the South Pass dirt road. It requires high-clearance vehicles to reach and is a bit of a challenge to access, but you'll be rewarded with magnificent routes and stunning canyon views all to yourself.
From V3 to 5.13: Exploring the Diverse Sport, Trad, and Bouldering Climbing Routes in Sinks Canyon
Sinks Canyon offers a variety of climbing routes suitable for climbers of all levels. Here is a breakdown of the classic climbs by type of climb, location, and difficulty.
Bouldering:
Ship's Prow, located in Cabin Boulders, is a V3 boulder climb.
Trad Climbing:
No Name Crack on the Sandstone Buttress is rated 5.7 and is a two-pitch trad climb.
Sport Climbing - 5.7 to 5.9:
A Very Good Place to Start, Beware the Foosa, Girls' Day Out, and Go West, Young Man are all 5.7 sport climbs. Frogger, Gunky, Put Down Your Ducky, and Zozo's Dance are 5.8 sport climbs. Heatseeker, Dogtown, Atta Boy, Girl, Duck Soup, More Funky Than Gunky, and Earth A.D. are all rated 5.9.
Sport Climbing - 5.10 to 5.11:
The 5.10 climbs include [Redacted], Manifest Destiny, Banoffee, Boy I Gotta Go, Action Candy, Surround Sound, Emperor of The Sky, Firecracker Kid, Sorta Maybe Kinda Wild, Smithereens, Diamonds in the Moon Light, Bombs over Crag Bag, Stud Alert, Dimebag Darrell, Winds of War, South Paw, Sandman, Global Warm-Up, Child's Play, Boots of Lead, Elmo's Fish, Candy Man, Powderfinger, and Storm of the Century. Harvest Moon, Corner Drug, Soul Finger, Recess Time, Blood Brother, Ain't No Mercy, Dog Star, Face Dancer, Sweet Beguilin', Bust a Nut, Whipperly Wamberly Walk, Waiting for a Friend, Heaven Can Wait, Mumble Pants, Spinal Tap, Vertical Smile AKA The Gran..., and Cold Moon are all rated 5.11. Right About Now is rated 5.11+.
Sport Climbing - 5.12 to 5.13:
Purple Galaxy, The Wilds, Hardware, Blue Moon, The Amp that Goes to 11, Goodnight Gorilla, Bush Doctor, Drug Enemy, Achin' for Bootie, and Cowboys from Hell are all classic climbs rated 5.12a. Feel The Bern, The Road to Dushanbe, Searching for Blanton's, Ring of Fire, HyperNova, Pocket Kalkulator, Moe, Animal Sounds, The Citadel of Hope, and Addiction are all rated 5.12b to 5.12c. My Dying Bride is a 5.12d sport climb. Full Tilt, Nirvana, Samsara, Pretty Hate Machine, Rimfire, TS Arete, Endeavor to Persevere, and The Zone are all rated 5.13a to 5.13c
Here’s a link to additional Sinks Canyon route info.
Explore the Surrounding Landmarks of Sinks Canyon State Park
Photo by Britanybtk licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0
If you're heading to Sinks Canyon State Park, there are some landmarks nearby that you should totally check out first. Like Popo Agie Falls, which is just a hop, skip, and jump away from Wind River Climbing Guides. It's an amazing waterfall that'll blow your mind. Then there's Fossil Hill, which is a totally unique geological formation that offers some epic views of the area. It's a super popular spot for hiking and rock climbing, so bring your gear if that's your jam. If you need some info or help getting around, swing by the Sinks Canyon Visitors Center. They've got all kinds of cool exhibits, maps, and resources that'll make your trip even more pleasant.
But if you're looking for a killer hike, check out the Sinks Canyon Loop Trail. It's 6.5 miles of pure awesomeness that takes you through some of the park's most stunning sights.
Book Your Half Day Climbing Trip at Sinks Canyon Now!
You ready to get your climb on in one of the most stunning places on the planet? Then you have to book your half-day trip to Sinks Canyon right now! Wind River Climbing Guides has a 4:1 climber-to-guide ratio, and they'll hook you up with all the gear you need. You'll be living the climbing dream and making memories for days! Don't even think about missing out on this epic adventure to explore the jaw-dropping beauty of Sinks Canyon State Park. Book your trip today!
